[Alon Shaya believes food can help people connect; sharing a meal
is a powerful tool against the rising hate against Jewish people and
everyone else. “Through cooking, you can share these stories with
the goal of stopping prejudice and ending hate."]
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PORTSIDE CULTURE

ALON SHAYA IS COOKING FOR CONNECTION  
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Laine Doss
March 20, 2023
Broken Palate
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_ Alon Shaya believes food can help people connect; sharing a meal is
a powerful tool against the rising hate against Jewish people and
everyone else. “Through cooking, you can share these stories with
the goal of stopping prejudice and ending hate." _

Alon Shaya , Photo by Laine Doss

 

This past weekend, Alon Shaya flew to Paradise Island, Bahamas to
participate in the inaugural Nassau Paradise Island Wine & Food
Festival. The five-day event included brunches, tastings, culinary
demos, and other activities. Shaya, an Israeli-born chef, is best
known for his New Orleans restaurants Saba and Miss River, and Safta
in Denver. Shaya will also open a restaurant at the Atlantis Resort in
Paradise Island this summer.

At a lunch demo held at chef Jose Andres’ restaurant, Fish, at the
resort, Shaya prepared shakshuka, Bulgarian lamb kebabs with a cabbage
salad, and malabi (a custard with strawberries, pistachios, and rose).
While cooking, Shaya entertained guests with stories of wife Emily’s
prowess with red beans (she is the recipient of the city’s “Bean
Madness” award), and coming home as a child to a house filled with
the scents of vegetables blistering on the stove.

Then the talk turned serious as Shaya recalled a 2011 trip to Yad
Vashem, the Holocaust Museum in Israel. Amidst all the artifacts,
books, and pictures of one of history’s darkest moments, Shaya's
thoughts turned to how food and family might be the last comfort when
everything else is lost. Other than knowing you will die, what is it
that keeps you going? How do people balance this and understand that
everything is about to end with something that brings you peace? It
got me really interested in the power of food when everything else is
going to destroy you.”

Four years later, at the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum in Washington
D.C., Shaya came across a cookbook. “We were looking through the
culinary artifacts and we came across this cookbook called the Fenves
Family Cookbook. Steven Vendez, who donated the book to the museum,
was 13 years old when he and his family were sent to Auschwitz. As
they were kicked out of their house, all of the neighbors were
standing and staring and cursing at them — waiting to ransack the
apartment.“

What the family didn’t know, was that the family cook, Marish, was
in the crowd. Powerless to stop the family from being taken, she
rescued the family cookbook and some of Steven’s mother’s artwork.

At Auschwitz, the Fenvez matriarch was killed immediately, and the
eldest Fenves also died. Steven Fenves and his sister survived. They
returned to Yugoslavia, and Marish was there with the cookbook. The
brother and sister left the items in Marish’s care until they were
settled. Years later, a package arrived in Chicago where they had
relocated. Years later, the family donated the book to the museum.

Shaya learned that Steven Fenves was still alive. He reached out to
him and formed a friendship. Shaya wanted to cook the recipes, and
Steven agreed to translate them from Hungarian. Shaya would cook the
meals and send them to the family. It was the first time in over half
a century that Steven had tasted his mother’s recipes.

Shaya and Fenves are now raising money to translate and digitize the
letters, recipes, books, writings, and books that are stored in the
U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum. “There are $20 million pieces of
artifacts in Polish, German, Russian, and Yiddish. They’re preserved
in filing cabinets, but they’re not available to view,” says
Shaya. With a one million dollar goal, Shaya and Fenves are hosting
fundraising dinners to fund the project.

Shaya says there’s a much larger reason to fund this project.”The
goal is to stop hate. You bake a cake from this book and you serve
this cake and you say, let me tell you the story of this family and
taste this cake and maybe it will connect that people shouldn’t hate
each other.”

Shaya says that sharing a meal is a powerful tool against the rising
hate against Jewish people and everyone else. “Through cooking, you
can share these stories with the goal of stopping prejudice and ending
hate. If you change one person in the world, you’ve made a
difference.”

For Shaya, the Fenves Family Cookbook was his catalyst to stop hate
through the shared experience of food. I asked the chef if the recipes
could be turned into a book for all to share. “Maybe,” he replied.

* Holocaust Memorial Museum
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* Jewish cooking
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* cooking traditions
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